TREND: Praliné: self-made or
ready-made?
A creative approach to home-made praline and ready-made alternativesMaking your own praline is extremely labour-intensive. So it's only logical that when it comes to praline fillings, most chocolatiers turn to the ready-made range. Nevertheless: Geert Decoster and Geert Nemegeer, two of the very few remaining chocolatiers who still make their own fillings, claim that consumers prefer the taste of home-made praline. Although they also admit that producing praline takes a lot of hard work. Fortunately there is a convenient compromise between self-made and ready-made: after all, ready-made praline still allows some scope for creativity.
READY-MADE PRALINE
Ingredients
The main ingredients that go into praline are hazelnuts, almonds and sugar. In order to meet the strictest quality requirements, manufacturers import premium selected nuts. Hazelnuts usually come from Italy or Turkey, while almonds are imported from Spain and California.
Varieties
With the exception of gianduja, there is no legal definition for
praline, however in the strictest sense of the word praline
consists of at least 50% toasted hazelnuts or almonds combined with
caramelised sugar. In practice, the term ‘praline’ is used in a
broader sense to include:
Nut paste
Nut paste or nut pâté contains around 50 to 100%
hazelnuts and/or almonds. In addition to sugar, oil or extra
caramelised sugar are sometimes also added.
Use: an ideal flavouring for fillings. Adding just a small amount
gives an intense nutty flavour. Their creamy texture means they are
easy to combine with ingredients like chocolate or fat.
Nut crème and gianduja
Nut crème is made of around 40% nuts, sugar, cocoa butter and
sometimes also cocoa mass.
According to the Chocolate Directive (2000/36), gianduja is made of
chocolate and hazelnut paste (20 to 40% hazelnuts per 100 grams).
Other nuts, whole or chopped, can be added to this (maximum of 60
grams of nuts per 100 grams).
Use: both can be used as a filling for moulded pralines or for
enrobing.
Nut crème is smoother and lighter in colour than giandujas.
Nut fillings with a textured effect
As well as the delicate, homogeneous pralines there are also
fillings with a textured effect, such as Praliné Feuilletine (a
soft filling made of crunchy biscuit, milk chocolate and almond and
hazelnut praline) or praline that combines toasted nuts with
caramelised nuts.
Use: as a flavouring or finished product.
From organic to fat-bloom resistant
In addition to the varieties listed above, the ready-made range
also includes praline containing:
Organic ingredients
In response to the growing demand for organic ingredients, an
organic hazelnut filling has been launched that can be combined
with organic chocolate to produce a 100% organic end product.
Maltitol
Maltitol-based hazelnut praline tastes just as good as traditional
praline and can be combined with chocolate without added sugar.
Pistachio nuts
In addition to hazelnut and/or almond-based praline, the ready-made
range also features a unique green praline produced according to
traditional methods, with a toasted pistachio nut content of more
than 50%.
Special fats
Some manufacturers perfect their hazelnut filling recipes by
combining the ingredients with various fats and oils. In the case
of chocolate applications, for instance, it is possible to use
special fats that can extend the product’s shelf life, or that are
fat bloom resistant.
Production methods
To date, there are two different methods for producing nut
paste: a praline with a nut and sugar content of at least 50%.
Traditional production
Nuts and sugar are caramelised together in copper kettles over a
flame, and then ground by granite rollers to produce a dense
liquefied mass. A unique flavour and exclusive texture make this
praline ideal for traditional chocolatiers.
Modern technology
Modern technology and equipment is used to produce praline with a
100% quality guarantee, whilst practically eliminating oil
separation. This praline has a harmonious flavour and can be
processed according to both traditional and industrial methods
thanks to its perfectly fluid texture.
Scope for a personal touch
Ready-made praline still leaves the chocolatier endless scope to experiment. For instance, new flavours and textures can easily be developed by combining different pralines together or with different types of chocolate. There are also a number of high stability basic fillings that the chocolatier, by adding additional flavourings, colourings and other ingredients, can prepare to any specification.
SELF-MADE PRALINE: A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE (IN TASTE)?
The majority of chocolatiers use ready-made
praline. Two exceptions to the rule are Geert Nemegeer of
Chocolaterie 't Karakske in Roeselare and Geert Decoster of
Centho-Chocolates in Duisburg.
Why do you make your own praline?
Geert Nemegeer: “The main reason is the huge
difference in flavour: although industrially produced praline can
vary widely in terms of quality, the self-made version is still by
far the tastiest due to its extremely intense nutty flavour.
Because you yourself are familiar with the composition, it is much
easier to play around with the balance.”
Geert Decoster: “Many manufacturers offer extremely high quality
products, but when it comes to flavour home-made praline is still
by far the best. It all goes back to the ingredients: I work
exclusively with hazelnuts from Piedmont, which are without a doubt
the best in the world. What’s more, my praline has an 80% nut
content, as opposed to just 50% in the case of industrially
produced praline. I also find that my customers like the slightly
gritty, crunchy texture of our home-made praline.”
How do you make your praline?
Geert Decoster: “It is impossible for a traditional
chocolatier to make his own praline without the right equipment. I
myself didn’t start to do this until I had access to a mixing drum.
This offers the advantage that you don’t have to continuously keep
up to date. After silting the nuts in the caramel, I combine the
mixture in a Stephan machine. Making your own praline is a learning
process. In the past I worked with cheaper nuts, but the core
sometimes turned black on heating (up to 150°C), producing a bitter
flavour. Piedmont nuts can withstand this heating process.”
Geert Nemegeer: “Our raw hazelnuts, which we purchase via a French
company, are first toasted and then shelled. We used to shell the
nuts by hand, but now we use a drum. We then add sugar and mix the
ingredients using a blender. The mixture is finally crushed in the
grinder until it no longer contains any granules.”
What do you use this self-made praline for?
Geert Nemegeer: “For pralines, truffles, Easter eggs, fruits de mer
... and in our pastries.”
Geert Decoster: “For our cut pralines I work exclusively with
home-made praline. I still use industrial praline for our chocolate
Santa Clauses. After all, it is impossible to keep up with demand
and the product is designed for children: they need to be
affordable.”
Do you think that making your own praline is
cost-effective?
Geert Decoster: “Piedmont nuts are very expensive.
Compared to ready-made praline, the purchase price of ingredients
is therefore easily 25% higher. However, this is perfectly
achievable with a retail price of €44 per kilo. Customers come here
to enjoy a flavour that they can’t find anywhere else, and I
believe this is also the only weapon that enables us to stand out
from the competition.”
Geert Nemegeer: “If you compare the cost price of ingredients with
the price of industrially produced praline, it’s a break-ever. But
making praline is very labour-intensive. If you need to pay staff
to do this, it's no longer viable. I do it myself, with help from
my wife, and we have noticed that our home-made praline have become
a calling card for our business.”
Reprinted from: Chocolaterie (Confectioners) magazine